7 de August, 2026
Portuguese filigree, as well as Portuguese jewelry as a whole, mirrors the country’s history and culture, extolling artistry, beauty and originality. Portuguese gold jewelry is globally acclaimed for its excellence, embodying the nation’s cultural and artistic heritage. An example is the distinction of the filigree technique as an intangible heritage of humanity by UNESCO since 2019, a testimony to its unique artisanal nature.
🌟 Portugal also stands out for its use of 19.2 carat gold. This surpasses conventional 18-carat gold in quality.
In this article we will tell you some curiosities about Portuguese jewelry (or joalharia, as they say in portuguese). We will tell you about its history and use in religious and traditional pilgrimages in the country. Discover how Portugal celebrates its cultural heritage in contemporary pieces through the work of current jewelers. And finally, get to know the Feast of Nossa Senhora da Agonia, the most traditional celebration of gold in Portugal, which takes place every year in August in Viana do Castelo.
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The jewelry tradition in Portugal is very old, but it took on new dimensions during the Age of Discoveries. During this period, Portuguese trade routes expanded contact with different territories, encouraging the circulation of precious stones, materials, jewelry, and luxury goods. Among the wealthier classes, jewelry was also valued as a symbol of status and power.
In the 17th century, Portuguese jewelry went through two very different phases.
During the first half of the century, Renaissance influence still prevailed, with colorful pieces, enamels, and combinations of different gemstones. After 1640, tastes began to change: rose-cut diamonds became increasingly popular, often combined with gold, silver, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires.
Jewelry was not exclusive to women. Men also embraced ornamentation. Hats could be decorated with feather plumes adorned with precious stones and even small chains known as “sentilhos.”
Rings were also popular among both men and women. Designs featured diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, as well as aquamarines, turquoise, coral, crystals, cat’s-eye stones, and even miniature portraits. Cameos, inherited from Renaissance tastes, also remained fashionable.
It was during the 18th century that Portuguese jewelry experienced one of its most exuberant periods.
Lisbon and Porto became established as important centers of production, while the Baroque style brought increasingly ornate, dramatic, and dynamic pieces. Flowers, leaves, religious symbols, and forms inspired by nature appeared frequently.
Throughout the 19th century, production continued to grow, while established artisanal techniques such as filigree and enamel took on new forms and applications.
In the 19th century, the Industrial Revolution introduced modern technologies that transformed production techniques.
Historical events, including the reign of Queen Maria II, also influenced jewelry design, leading to a balance between royal tradition and contemporary styles.
In the 20th century, Portuguese jewelry began to balance two forces: preserving historical techniques while keeping pace with new design trends.
New schools and generations of jewelers started reinterpreting traditional forms, while age-old techniques continued to be valued. Among them is filigree, which became one of the great symbols of Portuguese jewelry.
The result is a tradition that remains alive precisely because it learned how to evolve. Today, many Portuguese pieces combine centuries-old techniques with contemporary designs, while preserving something deeply characteristic of the country: an appreciation for detail, craftsmanship, and jewelry that carries meaning.
Also get to know the award-winning highlights of Portuguese gastronomy
A filigree is a silversmithing technique that consists of creating delicate, intricate patterns from twisted and interwoven strands of metal, which are welded together to form intricate, detailed designs.
The technique has been used since Greco-Roman antiquity. However, it was improved in Portugal over the centuries, with the introduction of new applications and materials, especially in the far north of the country, in the cities of Gondomar and Viana do Castelo. Today, Portuguese filigree is recognized worldwide as one of the most sophisticated and refined techniques of national jewellery and a symbol of Portugal. Many Portuguese jewelers continue to use it in their creations, keeping this tradition alive.
In the past they were made only in gold, but nowadays gold-plated silver is widely used, reducing the value of the piece by about 20 times and popularizing it even more.
The popularity of Portuguese filigree has also been driven by personalities from the world of fashion and entertainment, who use the technique in their creations or who are often seen wearing Portuguese filigree jewelry. This is the case of Hollywood actress Sharon Stone who has been photographed a few times wearing her “Heart of Viana in Filigree“.
➡️ Have you ever imagined experiencing the tradition of Portuguese filigree up close, while savoring a glass of Port wine and watching a craftsman shape an exclusive piece of jewelry just for you?
Portugal Experiments, a trusted partner of Atlantic Bridge, specializes in creating authentic and unforgettable experiences for those who wish to discover Portugal in a truly different way — with elegance, flavor, and meaning. Discover this one-of-a-kind opportunity where art, culture, and gastronomy come together in a unique workshop, and take home a piece of jewelry you helped bring to life.
The Coração de Viana is an iconic model of Portuguese filigree, known for its reproduction of a heart turned to the left side with lacy details inside. This model is a tribute to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.
The Contas de Viana, on the other hand, are small balls decorated with Portuguese filigree ornaments that give rise to eternal jewelry that passes from generation to generation. Due to their lightness and hollow construction, Viana Beads were more economical and quickly became the most popular jewelry of Portuguese Popular Gold. Young women would buy the beads one by one with the money they could collect from their work. The beads were placed on an adjustable woolen thread with a pompom at the back; a collection that grew over the years.
The Queen Earrings are another classic model, inspired by the earrings worn by Queen D. Maria II (1819-1853) during a visit to the city of Viana do Castelo. From then on, the noble ladies of the time started wearing the same model, not only for its beauty but also to demonstrate their status and wealth. To this day, powerful women wear the piece, such as Princess Mary of Denmark and Queen Letizia of Spain.
One of the most beautiful and rich scenarios of the Portuguese popular tradition can be contemplated during the Pilgrimage of Our Lady of Agony, in Viana do Castelo. The Agonia Festival usually lasts 4 days in August. The highlight of the pilgrimage takes place at the Parade of Stewardship, the largest open-air showcase of costumes and gold in the country, where around 600 participants show their pride by wearing the traditional costumes of Viana and using all the gold in the family. The ostentation is such that there is a whole security scheme prepared by the local police during the days of the party. The photos speak for themselves.
This abundance of gold has its roots in a very old tradition from the Minho region. For generations, families built up a young woman’s personal wealth through jewelry received from parents, grandparents, godparents, and other relatives. These pieces were accumulated throughout her life, passed down from one generation to the next, and could even become part of her dowry when she married. More than a simple display of wealth, gold represented security, preparation for adult life, and family assets — almost like an old and portable form of savings.
This tradition of adorning women with gold took on a particularly striking form in Viana do Castelo. In the past, the pieces were worn more modestly and followed certain rules of composition. Over time, especially throughout the 20th century, the amount of gold on display increased, eventually giving rise to the impressive ensembles that today cover much of the mordomas’ chests.
The Mordomia Parade, created in 1968 and inspired by the traditional mordomias of the villages around Viana do Castelo, helped transform this family custom into one of the great symbols of the Festas d’Agonia. Today, the parade brings together different generations and keeps alive a heritage in which traditional dress, gold, family, and Minho identity are deeply intertwined.
The golden ornaments appear on the neck, ears, or arms, or in accessories known as “peitilhos”, a kind of cloth bib where all the gold you want to show off is baked. The queen earring is the most common ear adornment used in the party.
Anyone who has ever visited an exhibition of Portuguese jewelry belonging to Portuguese nobility and wealthy merchants has surely noticed the large amount of precious and semi-precious stones used in the creations.
During the colonization of Brazil by the Portuguese, several precious stones were discovered in the territory, including diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. From the 18th century onwards, Portugal became one of the main gemstone trading centers in the world, receiving a large amount of Brazilian stones that were cut and transformed into jewelry in the city of Porto.
Brazilian stones are highly valued in Portuguese jewelry to this day, and many Portuguese designers and jewelers use these stones in their creations, combining the beauty of Brazilian stones with the refined technique and design of Portuguese jewelry.
We recommend a visit to the Marta Ortigão Museum in Porto, which brings together a collection of about 300 pieces from the late 17th to the 20th century that belonged to the maternal niece of the Portuguese painters Aurélia de Souza and Sofia de Souza.
We cannot fail to mention the strong relationship between the Catholic religion and gold ornamentation in religious manifestations in Portugal. Gold is used to decorate sacred images, litters, procession participants and extras, and it was common until the mid-twentieth century for the women behind the litters to be laden with gold (such as the mordomas of the Agony Festival).
You can also find beautiful goldwork on liturgical pieces in the country’s sacred museums.
Portugal also has several churches with richly ornamented gold walls, such as the Churches of São Francisco and Santa Clara in Porto and the Church of Madre de Deus in Lisbon.
Carlton Jewellery is a Coimbra-based jewelry brand that unites Portuguese tradition and culture with the art of jewelry. Founded in 2016 by Portuguese jeweler Carlos Góis, the brand has always stood out for its high-quality collections, which are a true celebration of Portuguese culture.
Carlton Jewellery’s engagement ring collection is a tribute to the magnificent Portuguese palaces, full of beauty and romance. Each model is inspired by one of these buildings:
For those looking for exclusivity and description, Carlton Jewellery offers a customized service, including online. Through a video call or face-to-face visit, it will be possible not only to know the pieces of the collections mentioned above, but also to order exclusive and tailor-made jewelry, with the guarantee that your piece will not be replicated for anyone else.
Atlantic Bridge clients have preferential and personalized service, with extended hours. Just send an email to c.gois@carltonjewellery and inform that you are a client of Atlantic Bridge to schedule your visit or video call.
Atlantic Bridge is a partner of the jeweler and recommends its collections to all who seek products with originality and exceptional quality.
If your dream is to relocate to Portugal or obtain your portuguese citizenship, rely on Atlantic Bridge’s expertise to make it a reality. We provide comprehensive support for visa processes, from selecting the ideal option to offering the legal and administrative assistance needed to ensure your peace of mind. Contact us and find out how we can help you and your family start a new life in Portugal with confidence and security
Realizing your goal of living in Europe or obtaining European citizenship can be simpler than you think. We offer personalized support to make the immigration process more accessible and uncomplicated.
Author:
Atlantic Bridge
